The Region of Belize - Lighthouse Reef Atoll

The Regions - Lighthouse Reef Atoll

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The Regions - Lighthouse Reef Atoll

Lighthouse Reef Atoll

The most easterly of Belize's three atolls, Lighthouse Reef lies 50 miles southeast of Belize City. The 30-mile-long, eight-mile-wide lagoon is the location of the Blue Hole, a dive spot that was made famous by Jacques Cousteau and that is a favorite destination of dive boats from Belize City, Ambergris Caye, and Caye Caulker. The best dive spots, however, are along the walls of Half Moon Caye and Long Caye, where the diving rivals that of any in the world.

Think of the atoll as a large spatula with a short handle and a long blade. At the northern tip of the spatula blade, Sandbore Caye is home to a rusty lighthouse and a few fishing shacks. It is also the favorite anchorage of several of the dive boats that do overnight stops, including Reef Roamer II.

Big Northern Caye, across a narrow strait, is the location of Lighthouse Reef Resort. A landing strip just behind the resort is a convenient means of entry for resort guests and divers who wish to make only a day trip without the long water-crossing going and coming, which eats up most of the day. Here are long stretches of beach to walk, beautiful vistas, and large areas of mangroves and lagoons, home to snowy egrets and crocodiles.

Halfway down the spatula-shaped atoll, about where the blade meets the handle, lies the magnificent Blue Hole, a formation best appreciated from the air, but also impressive from the bridge of a boat.

At the elbow of the handle, and looking like some kind of Gilligan's Island, is Half Moon Caye with its lighthouse, bird sanctuary, shipwrecks, and incredible diving offshore. Finally, on the imaginary handle we come upon Long Caye, a lonely outpost with a small dock, large palms, and glassy water.

Some anglers and beach bums do come to Lighthouse, but the lure of diving is what attracts most visitors. And at Lighthouse Reef, they are not disappointed.

DIVE SITES

Blue Hole
If flying over the offshore coast, you'll easily recognize this large circular formation with its magnificent blue-to-black hues surrounded by neon blue water. Though there are other, smaller, blue holes around Ambergris Caye, Caye Caulker, and elsewhere, this is the Blue Hole to beat them all. The submerged shaft is a karst-eroded sinkhole with depths that exceed 400 feet. In the early 1970s, Jacques Cousteau and his crew explored the tunnels, caverns, and the listing stalactites that were angled by past earthquakes. This twilight world has suspended sediment and little fish life.

Most dive groups descend to a depth of about 135 feet. Technically, this is not a dive for novices or even intermediate divers, though thousands have done it. It requires a rapid descent, a very short period at depth, and a careful ascent. For a group of 10 or more, at least three dive masters should be present. Critics write it off as a "hyped-up macho dive."

From the standpoint of undersea life, the lip of the crater, down to about 60-80 feet, is a much more interesting dive. Be prepared for some of the largest midnight parrot fish you will see anywhere. Stingrays are also to be found in sandy areas, as are feather duster worms. Angelfish, butterfly fish, and small reef fish cluster around coral heads and outcroppings. Occasional barracudas and small groupers guard their territories.

Half Moon Caye Wall
They just don't come much better than this. Here on the eastern side of the atoll, the reef has a shallow shelf in about 15 feet of water where garden eels are plentiful. The sandy area broken with corals extends downward till you run into the reef wall, which rises some 20 feet toward the surface. Most boats anchor in the sandy area above the reef wall. Numerous fissures in the reef crest form canyons or tunnels leading out to the vertical face. In this area sandy shelves and valleys frequently harbor nurse sharks and gigantic stingrays. Divers here are sure to return with a wealth of wonderful pictures.

Tres Cocos
On the western wall, "Three Coconuts" refers to trees on nearby Long Caye. The sandy bottom slopes from about 30 feet to about 40 feet deep before it plunges downward. Overhangs here are common features, and sponges and soft corals adorn the walls. Another fish-lover's paradise, Tres Cocos does not have the outstanding coral formations you'll see at several other dives in the area, but who cares; there's a rainbow of marine life all about. Turtles, morays, jacks, coral, shrimp, cowfish, rays, and angelfish are among the actors on this colorful stage.

Silver Caves
The shoals of silversides (small gleaming minnows) that gave this western atoll site its name are gone. But, Silver Caves is still impressive and enjoyable. The coral formations are riddled with large crevices and caves that cut clear through the reef. As you enter the water above the sandy slope where most boats anchor, you'll be in about 30 feet of water and surrounded by friendly yellowtail snappers. Once again you'll see the downwardly sloping bottom, the rising reef crest, and the stomach-flipping drop into the blue.

West Point
Farther north and about even with the Blue Hole, West Point is well worth a dive. Visibility may be a bit more limited than down south, but it's still very acceptable. The reef face here is stepped. The first drop plunges from about 30 feet to well over 100 feet deep. Another coral and sand slope at that depth extends a short distance before dropping vertically into very deep water. The first and shallow wall has pronounced overhangs and lush coral and sponge growth.

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